My last two surf trips have been in the state of Sinaloa, and I am going back this summer. The state department has a level 4 travel advisory about going there. This is the same level as Iraq, Afghan, Syria etc. What's crazy is there is only a level three travel advisory for Nicaragua where hundreds have been shot by the police or pro-police thugs in the past year. There have been many major roads blocked by citizens protesting in Nica. The travel advisory has been increased from 3 to 4 because El Chapo is in jail in the US and his underlings are fighting for power and other groups are challenging.
We go to a small fishing village with a "surf hotel" there. All inclusive including surf guides. Thanks to the the cartel, we have exclusive access to a world-class break, and nobody but guests of the hotel are allowed to surf there. 15 guys max. There is no crime in this little fishing village. The small grocery store has no door at the entrance, and you could walk in and steal anything you wanted if you desired. There are about 20 luxury beach houses on the ocean side.
The hotel picks us up at the airport and takes us straight to the hotel, and nothing happens around this hotel 40 miles from anything. When driving up the highway, police travel in convoys, and we saw several heavily armed wearing "hooded masks" that covered their face. All in the back of a Toyota 4x4.
I talked to the sole gringo lady in town who ran an eco-lodge, and she told me that the nearest cop is 1.5 hours away, and when there is a problem, we don't call the police, but we know who to call. She said "Who do you think owns these beautiful beach mansions?" . This is where they bring their family and children for vacation. Nothing happens here. Did you notice the guy on the corner with the cell phone when you got off the highway? There is only one dirt road in and out of this town and we know who is in town.
To all of us, it's obvious the hotel owner works with the cartel, and the cartel is just not about drugs. If they wanted to kill us one night, they could, and nobody would ever find our bodies. There is a bumper sticker on the fridge in the main room that says "Cartel doesn't kill surfers".
But...this is a profitable business, and it's clear that we are under the protection of those associated with the cartel. There will be no random drive by in this fishing town, and the owner sincerely loves surfing and the guests etc. There is no power struggle, competition, or deals (except maybe at exec level) going down in tiny fishing village.
Funny story, during a flat day, one of the guides took us to see a huge ranch where they train roosters to fight. I could tell stories about that. Then we went to a Tequila distillery and finally an authentic Mexican restaurant in a small town. In the van ride back to the hotel with about 8 guests, one of the guests said "This is not the same way we came". And the guide said, with Mexican accent" "Si, theeese is when I take you to the mountains and "keeeeel" you. Our surf guides had an incredible sense of humor and knew US language idioms. Could tell many more stories about their humor.