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The a Realities of Surfing

That didn't have anything to do with riptides or tides. That had to do with getting caught up on the inside of a gnarly set. He got beat up pretty good but that's BAU for surfer dudes. I don't think he was anywhere near drowning though...
 
Yeah, that's actually pretty common on head high plus days, happens to everyone. The key is to not kook out and miss the wave, especially taking the first wave of the set.
 
Anybody else really hoping to see a shark on the camera view come up and take a bite?
 
Originally posted by BransonFSU71:
Originally posted by travnole:
He needs to learn how to duck. He should rent a copy of North Shore. Most accurate depiction of how to big wave surf ever made.

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Chandler teach me how to big wave surf Howlie Boy.
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Best surf movie ever and it's not even close....and Cman, don't even say Point Break. ;)
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'Apocalypse Now' is the best surfing movie ever made. Best water skiing movie too.
 
Originally posted by HulaNole:
'Apocalypse Now' is the best surfing movie ever made. Best water skiing movie too.

Haven't seen.

But we used to watch North Shore like crazy back in the day.
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And Dan, how in the hell have you not seen Apocalypse Now? I mean, cmon man...Next you'll tell us you've never seen the Godfathers or Shawshank.
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